The 12th Virginia Infantry ~ American Civil War Reenactors

Company B Authenticity Guidelines

The 12th Virginia Infantry, Company B has established a set of uniform guidelines to have conformity in the ranks as far as uniforms and equipment.Variances from this guide need prior approval by the membership committee and the unit commander, and should have a documented precedent. We allow one year for you to acquire the correct gear, and loaner items are available to new members as needed.

Our intent is for everyone to have at least a "mid-war" impression that can be used for most reenactments, in any theatre.

While we do not "stitch-count", it is important that your gear and uniform be correct. Please consult with NCO's or veteran members before making major purchases outside of these guidelines!

It is expected that every member will do their utmost to keep modern paraphernalia out of sight while in our 1860's timeframe. We also hope that members will avoid trendy reenactorisms that are simply inappropriate for our impression.

The Uniform of the 12th Virginia Infantry, Company B

There are two types of acceptable uniform fabric for our unit. The preferred fabric is a medium gray jean-cloth, and the unit usually has a supply of this on hand for those who wish to use this fabric. The unit also uses a dark charcoal gray wool, sometimes known as "Richmond Gray". Ideally, all visible stitching on uniforms will be by hand, and should be of plain white cotton thread (or thread dyed using period means). It is important to note that all buttonholes should be done by hand, as machines to sew them were not common in the 1860's! It is very easy to redo existing buttonholes by hand, and it adds a great deal to your impression!

Jacket:

Richmond Depot Type 2 shell jacket is the preferred pattern, This is the type that has the shoulder straps, belt loops, and 9 button front. There is no piping. The shoulder straps should be functional, with a button and buttonholes. Type 1 RD jackets are acceptable for 1862 and earlier events. Type 3 RD (without the straps and loops) and Peter Tait jackets are also acceptable for late war events. Single breasted frock coats are acceptable, but outside the norm for our company. There is some evidence that some members of the 12th recieved North Carolina uniforms in late 1864 or early 1865;therefore these may be acceptable for late war events.

Trousers:

Richmond Depot style trousers are preferred. This style has bone buttons, mule-ear pockets (with or without buttons), and a rear yoke strap adjustable with a buckle instead of a string. Sky blue Kersey federal trousers are not acceptable. Civilian pattern trousers may be used if of the correct material and construction.

Suspenders:

You WILL need a pair! Cloth or canvas with leather ends where it attaches to the pants buttons. Obviously, no modern suspenders with elastic!

Socks:

Heavy knitted wool or woven cotton, not white athletic socks. Avoid modern blends with synthetic fibers.

Shoes:

Jefferson or Brogan shoes with leather sole and heels. Federal type brogans are ok. Heel plates are optional, but recommended. Hob nails are also optional. Rubber-soled shoes, work boots and jungle boots are not allowed! Infantry privates should avoid tall officer-type boots.

Shirt:

Cotton, flannel, or linen in a military or civilian period pattern. There is scant documentation on Confederate shirt issue, but Federal issue shirts are acceptable (white or grey domet flannel), as are British army import shirts. This a an item that can be "sent from home", so civilian types are OK. It can be a solid color or a period print. If using a plaid fabric, look for woven rather than printed patterns. Shirt buttons should be glass, bone, china, mother of pearl, or pewter types. Make sure the buttonholes are done by hand.

Hat:

Kepis were the issue military uniform hat in the ANV, but civilian "slouch" hats became prevelant as the war progressed. Either are acceptable for our unit. Many period photographs show hats in good condition and not broken down and shapeless. Slouch hats should have a liner. Hardee hats, shapeless hillbilly hats, Bummer caps, and McDowell style caps are incorrect for our impression. Keep hat brass and decorations to a minimum, especially Federal issue decorations!

Miscellaneous:

Wristwatches and modern eyeglasses must not be worn while in uniform with this unit. Correct style period eyewear and pocket watches are easily available and inexpensive. Note that many inexpensive pocketwatches are sold with an incorrect chain; discard these and use a piece of twine or leather until you can get a correct pocketwatch chain.

Accoutrements:

All Accoutrements should be of black leather, not buff or brown. Although Federal issue gear is acceptable, it is preferred that you use documented Confederate issue gear.

Cartridge box and strap:

Suggested pattern is either the CS Depot .58 calibre issue with a lead or brass finial, or the pre-war militia .69 calibre box. Must be of black leather. Although we prefer you use a cartridge box sling, wearing the box on your belt is acceptable. Leather or canvas slings are OK. British Enfield pattern cartridge boxes are acceptable. "Captured" Federal equipment is also acceptable for individual impressions, although you may want to avoid using the box and breast plates. You must have cartridge tins in your box!

Belt:

Your accoutrement belt should be of black leather or tarred canvas. White buff leather or cotton web gear is acceptable for pre-war militia or very early war. The buckle should be a sewn-on Georgia frame buckle, Forked Tongue buckle, or Roller buckle. British Enfield ("snake" buckle) belt/buckles are OK, as are "captured" US oval belt plates and accoutrement belts. If using an unattached buckle, use the rectangular "ANV" style CSA buckle ... please note that the Virginia state seal belt buckle is incorrect for use on leather belts, as these were made only for use with cotton web gear!!!

Cap Box:

CS Depot issue is preferred: black leather single strap cap box, no external stamping, with a lead finial. Stick with the semi-circle shaped front flap, rather than the large "shield" shape flaps. British Enfield pattern and 2-Strap "captured" Federal issue cap boxes are OK.

Bayonet Scabbard:

Should be black leather. CS Depot issue is preferred, these were sewn with one or no rivets, with a lead,pewter, or brass tip. "Captured" Federal scabbards are ok (these are the 2- or 7-rivet style). British Enfield pattern scabbards are acceptable as well. Note that it is a safety requirement that your scabbard have a tip on it.

Haversack:

Generic CS Depot issue (white canvas or cotton) or civilian type are OK. Captured Federal tarred haversacks are also acceptable. There are a number of very good repros available of specific original Confederate haversacks, these are OK too. Make sure you adjust the strap so that it rides high, and does not hang below your hip.

Canteen:

Tin drum and wooden canteens are best. "Captured" Federal canteens are OK, in limited numbers. Leather straps with adjustable buckles were issued until 1862, thereafter white cotton or canvas slings were used. It was common for the soldiers to adjust the sling so that the canteen would not hang too low. Avoid stainless steel canteens, as they are incorrect! Your tin will not rust if you take care of it and dry it between events.

Knapsacks:

There are a wide variety available. This is a valuable addition to your impression, and comes in very handy. Some forgo the use of a knapsack and use a blanket roll instead, this is OK. If you want a knapsack, go with either a Federal soft double-bag, or a pre-war single-bag.

Side knives:

Many soldiers went to war in '61-'62 with a big Bowie knife. Most of these were tossed very quickly in favor of a pocket knife. Most of the sideknives sold by Sutlers are very incorrect, so make this one of your last purchases and make sure you get one that looks correct. Avoid the "made in Pakistan" look...

Buckles, Buttons, Hat Pins, etc.

Hat brass:

Avoid this like the plague (i.e., less is more...). The CS generally did not issue infantry hunting horns or company letters/numbers for hats. Also, please no animal parts or other oddball items.

Buckles:

Acceptable types are Georgia frame, forked tongue, period roller buckles, rectangular CSA of the "ANV" type, oval CS, and "captured" US ovals. Remember that Virginia state seal belt plates and breast plates were ONLY used with cotton web gear belting, not leather.

Buttons:

The various "I" types are good, as are Virginia state seal buttons, Federal eagle buttons, brass or pewter flower buttons, and wooden buttons. Avoid "CSA" buttons; these should be used for very late war events only.

Cartridge box plates and breast plates:

These are wrong for this impression, avoid them. The only exception would be on early militia gear or on "captured" Union issue equipment, and even then a Confederate soldier would probably dispose of the extra weight.

Various pins and emblems:

Although these lend a bit of individuality, these should be avoided. Masonic, Irish, etc. emblems are pretty much a reenactorism. Although there are a few original examples of these, most common use was in the Union army.

Firearms:

In order to participate in battles with us, we require a "3-band" musket. This is a re-enacting standard for safety reasons alone. Other weapons may be used as appropriate in living history situations or as determined by the Company Commander. The weapon WILL be inspected and MUST be in a clean and safe condition before use. Military personnel are expected to clean and maintain their weapons as if their lives really depended on it. (They do. An unclean firearm is an unsafe firearm, even shooting blanks!) It is STRONGLY recommended that you use a separate barrel on your weapon for firing live rounds! Modern bullets have a tendency to break off at the skirt and leave lead pieces in the breech, a definite safety hazard for other reenactors!

There are many reproduction musket-rifles available, we suggest you not ruin an original by bringing it out. Acceptable types include: the various .58 calibre model P53 Enfield Rifle-Muskets, the various .58 calibre Springfield rifle-muskets, the .58 calibre "Richmond" rifle-musket, the M1842 .69 calibre smoothbore musket, and the various flintlock-to-percussion conversions. When contemplating a first-time purchase, please consult a "veteran" before spending the big bucks.

Pistols are not allowed on the field except for officers, so be aware of that before you buy one.

You will need a bayonet that fits and SAFELY LOCKS onto your musket! Be advised that they almost always need a bit of custom fitting (a.k.a. "filing") to fit properly when new.

Other items:

Tents:

We usually set up a garrison camp with A-frame tents, but military members are encouraged to be able to do a campaign impression. For a Confederate infantryman, this means sleeping in the open on the ground, or at best using a small piece of canvas for an improvised fly (this is very cheap and easy to make!). Captured Federal issue shelter-halves (dog tents) are acceptable, but you should do a bit of research before buying or making your own, so that it is correct. You should plan on eventually buying your own tent, if you need an A-frame.

Ground cloths, gum blankets and ponchos:

A Confederate soldier may have had a oiled canvas 3' x 6' groundcloth, or possibly one "tarred" on one side. These are extremely easy and inexpensive to make with a little research. Captured Federal "rubber coated" gum blankets are acceptable as well. You may wish to consider a poncho instead of the gum blanket, as they can be worn in wet weather while still serving the same role.

Cups and utensils:

Tin cups, plates, and eating utensils are the norm ... do not buy stainless steel as it is incorrect! The same goes for speckle-ware; it is anachronistic for the time period. Avoid any cast iron items as these would be awfully difficult to carry on the march...if you need a frying pan, consider a thin stamped steel one like they used. Utensils should have a bone or wooden handle, originals are very cheap and look much better than repros.

Camp boxes:

A good wooden box with a lid to carry excess gear is a great asset in a garrison camp, and is much preferable to modern trunks, cardboard boxes, etc. You don't have to have one, but they do come in very handy.

Chairs:

Can't go wrong sitting on the ground. If you wish to use a chair, make sure it is of period style and construction. Wooden Adirondack chairs are not period! Folding stools, etc. should have white canvas or heavy upholstery cloth.

Lanterns:

Consider using just a candle holder. If you must use a lantern, please use a wooden or tin candle lantern. Railroad-type oil lanterns are not correct; neither are flashlights or Coleman lanterns.

Coolers:

Okay, we all know that they didn't have coolers back then; however it is common practice to use a cooler discreetly in a garrison camp. Please, use common sense and make your cooler "invisible"... cover it up at all times, keep it in your tent, build a box around it, etc. Some of us have "Donny Boxes", wooden coolers that are lined with insulation. From the outside they look like common chests.